Volubilis & Meknes Travel Guide: Romans, Sultans & an Unexpected Plot Twist
- Akshay Umashankar
- Feb 13
- 4 min read
Some days on the road feel transitional. This was not one of them. We left Chefchaouen at 9 a.m. That magical hour where you’re technically awake, but your brain is still negotiating terms. As we drove out of the Rif Mountains, I kept turning back for one last look. The blue city shimmered behind us like a watercolour painting fading into the distance. It had only been 48 hours in Morocco, yet every stop had delivered small gasps, big surprises, and zero disappointments. We kept thinking, Surely it can’t top this.
Morocco, once again, replied:
“Hold my mint tea.”
Volubilis – Rome’s Forgotten Outpost in Africa
On the drive toward Meknes, Mustafa casually turned onto a smaller road.
“We’re going to Volubilis,” he said.
Volubilis.
A name that sounded like an Italian gelato flavour or a Harry Potter spell. Definitely not something I associated with Morocco.
When we arrived, our guide smiled and said:“Welcome to the Roman ruins of Volubilis.”
Wait. What?
Roman ruins. In Morocco?
And suddenly everything made sense. The columns, the mosaic patterns, the geometry in the stone.
The History of Volubilis (Why It Exists in Morocco)
Volubilis was once the administrative capital of Mauretania Tingitana, a Roman province established in the 1st century AD. Think of it as Rome’s far-flung branch office as the empire stretched all the way into North Africa. It became wealthy through olive oil production and trade. The region’s fertile land made it one of Rome’s important agricultural hubs. Even after the Romans withdrew in the 3rd century, the city remained inhabited for centuries.
Legend has it some Roman governors complained Volubilis was “the end of the world.”
If the end of the world looks like rolling olive groves under Mediterranean sun, I’ll take it.
Why Volubilis Is Worth Visiting
Unlike Rome or Pompeii, where crowds compete with ruins, Volubilis feels spacious and peaceful. We wandered for nearly two hours with barely anyone around.
Highlights include:
Intricate mosaics still remarkably intact
The Basilica and Capitoline Temple
Triumphal Arch of Caracalla
Expansive olive press ruins
There’s something surreal about standing among Roman columns while hearing the call to prayer echo faintly from distant Moroccan villages.
Africa. Rome. Silence. Wind.
If time travel had a sound, this place was humming it.
Meknes – The Ambitious Imperial City
After Rome-in-Africa, we drove toward one of Morocco’s four imperial cities: Meknes.
Meknes rose to prominence in the late 17th century under Sultan Moulay Ismail, a ruler with vision, ambition, and absolutely no interest in modesty.
Moulay Ismail: Morocco’s Answer to Versailles
Moulay Ismail wanted Meknes to rival the grandeur of European capitals.
He allegedly even wrote to King Louis XIV of France asking to marry his daughter. Louis declined. Politely. (Or awkwardly.)
In response or perhaps independently, Moulay Ismail poured resources into transforming Meknes into a monumental imperial capital.
Bab Mansour – The Gate That Means Business
Bab Mansour is widely considered one of the most beautiful gates in Morocco.
Built with intricate zellige tilework, massive marble columns (some repurposed from Volubilis sustainability, 17th-century style), and an imposing archway, it was designed to intimidate and impress.
Heri es-Souani – The Royal Granaries & Stables
Heri es-Souani feels almost industrial in scale.
These vaulted chambers once stored grain and housed up to 12,000 royal horses. The architecture used clever ventilation and thick walls to regulate temperature long before modern engineering. Standing inside, you realize this wasn’t just ambition. It was logistical brilliance. Moulay Ismail loved his horses. Possibly more than some kings loved diplomacy.
Place el-Hedim – Meknes’ Calm Counterpart
Often compared to Marrakech’s Jemaa el-Fnaa, Place el-Hedim offers a gentler rhythm.
Cafés line the square. Locals gather. There’s movement, but not chaos. It’s Moroccan buzz without near-death experiences involving scooters.
We wandered through the bazaar, passed mosques and markets, and soaked in the atmosphere.
But I’ll admit something.
After Chefchaouen’s fairytale blues and Volubilis’ Roman plot twist, Meknes felt… calm.
Pleasant.Pretty.Less jaw-dropping than we’d secretly hoped.
Not every city needs to scream for attention. Some just exist quietly.
Lunch in Meknes: Aesthetic 10/10, Taste Still Negotiating
Lunch was in a beautifully decorated traditional Moroccan restaurant.
Lanterns. Carved wood ceilings. Patterned tiles. Instagram-ready in every direction.
The food?
Let’s say our taste buds were still negotiating peace treaties with the spices.
Moroccan cuisine is rich, layered, and deeply rooted in tradition. But by this stage of the trip, our palates were slightly overwhelmed.
Still, when the setting looks like a palace, it’s hard to complain too much.
Why Visit Volubilis & Meknes?
If you’re planning a northern Morocco itinerary, pairing Volubilis and Meknes makes perfect sense:
Volubilis delivers ancient Roman history in Africa
Meknes offers imperial Moroccan grandeur
Both are less crowded than Fes or Marrakech
You can visit both comfortably in one day
It’s a day of contrasts from Rome’s ruins in olive fields, followed by sultans and monumental gates. As we left Meknes and continued toward Fes, the landscape shifted once again. Olive groves faded into denser urban life. Morocco had pulled off another day of surprises.
Frequently Asked Questions About Volubilis & Meknes
Is Volubilis worth visiting?
Yes. Volubilis is one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in North Africa, featuring detailed mosaics and wide-open archaeological landscapes.
How far is Volubilis from Meknes?
Volubilis is about 30 km from Meknes, roughly a 40-minute drive.
How long do you need at Volubilis?
1.5 to 2 hours is ideal to explore the ruins comfortably.
Is Meknes worth visiting?
Yes, especially for history lovers. Meknes offers imperial architecture, Bab Mansour gate, and royal granaries without the crowds of Fes or Marrakech.
Can you visit Volubilis and Meknes in one day?
Yes. Many travellers combine both in a single day trip when travelling between Chefchaouen and Fes.
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