Fes Travel Guide: A City of Legends, Labyrinths & Leather
- Akshay Umashankar
- Feb 13
- 4 min read
If Morocco were a book, Fes would be the dense, chaotic, genius-level chapter you reread twice, not because it’s confusing, but because it’s overflowing with history.
This is the city where dynasties rose, scholars debated, artisans perfected crafts, and time decided to simply… stay. Welcome to Fes, Morocco’s cultural and spiritual capital.
Fes at a Glance: 1,300 Years of Brilliance
Before stepping into the labyrinth, here’s why Fes matters:
Founded in 789 AD by Idris I
Expanded by Idris II
Home to the world’s oldest continuously operating university
Houses one of the largest car-free urban zones on Earth
At the heart of it lies Fes el-Bali, the ancient Medina, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with over 9,000 alleyways.
Yes. Nine. Thousand.
You don’t “navigate” Fes. You surrender to it.
University of al-Qarawiyyin – The World’s Oldest University
Founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri, yes, a woman. Al-Qarawiyyin predates Oxford and Bologna by centuries.
Let that sink in.
While much of Europe was still figuring out medieval politics, Fes was hosting theological debates, scientific inquiry, and intellectual exchange.
You can’t freely roam the interior unless you’re Muslim, but even glimpses from surrounding rooftops or courtyards feel significant.
This isn’t just a monument. It’s living academic history.
Royal Palace of Fes – Royal Doors, Zero Entry
Our first official stop was the Royal Palace or more accurately, the outside of it.
Because no one gets inside except the King and his circle.
But honestly? The doors are enough.
Massive golden brass gates. Intricate zellige tilework. Carved cedarwood details so precise they feel digitally printed, except they’re centuries old.
The palace walls stretch long enough to trick your smartwatch into thinking you’ve completed your daily step goal. In Morocco, grandeur doesn’t shout. It gleams quietly.
Pottery & Mosaic Craftsmanship – Where We Tried (And Failed)
Fes is known for its artisans.
We visited a traditional pottery and mosaic workshop where craftsmen shaped clay exactly as their ancestors did, by hand. No automation. No shortcuts.
Fes ceramics are iconic: deep cobalt blues, geometric patterns, hand-cut mosaic tiles assembled piece by piece.
Then came our turn at the pottery wheel.
The master potter made a flawless vase.
We made something that looked emotionally complicated.
Still, it was one of the most authentic experiences of the trip, messy, humbling, and strangely meditative.
Into the Labyrinth: Exploring Fes Medina
Calling it a “market” feels criminally inaccurate.
Fes el-Bali is a living, breathing medieval city:
Donkeys transport goods (streets are too narrow for cars)
Families live in homes 700–800 years old
Two door knockers signal different visitors (one for men, one for women)
Exteriors are plain and interiors are stunning
Smells rotate every few steps:Fresh bread.Spices.Grilled meats.Then something… stronger.
Our guide navigated effortlessly, rescuing us from what would have been certain geographic disaster.
He led us to a hidden café where mint tea was brewed over charcoal. Strong enough to revive a tired camel.
Chouara Tannery – The Smell Arrives First
To visit the tannery, you must walk through a leather shop.
Before stepping onto the terrace, they hand you mint leaves.
That’s when you know things are about to get serious.
Chouara Tannery dates back to at least the 11th century and remains one of the oldest operating tanneries in the world.
The process?
Limestone and pigeon droppings soften the hides
Natural dyes like saffron (yellow), indigo (blue), poppy (red) fill stone vats
Workers stand knee-deep in colour under the sun
The smell? Character-building.
The view? Spectacular.
Hundreds of dye pits form a mosaic of earthy reds, yellows, and browns. It looks almost artistic, until you remember it’s entirely functional.
Our guide claimed many luxury brands source leather from here before relabelling it at dramatic markups. After watching the labour involved, that felt believable.
Is Fes Worth Visiting?
If you’re planning a Morocco itinerary, Fes is essential.
It’s more intense than Marrakech
More historic than Chefchaouen
More traditional than Casablanca
Fes doesn’t perform for tourists.
It simply exists and it's dense, layered, unapologetically authentic.
Six hours in the Medina felt like thirty minutes. And we still barely scratched the surface.
From Fes to the Atlas Mountains
By late afternoon, we left the labyrinth behind.
The journey from Fes to the Sahara is long, so instead of rushing, we stayed overnight in the Atlas Mountains, where the landscape shifts dramatically once again.
But that story? Deserves its own chapter.
Frequently Asked Questions About Fes
Is Fes worth visiting?
Yes. Fes offers one of the most authentic and historic experiences in Morocco, with a medieval Medina, ancient university, and traditional leather tanneries.
How many days do you need in Fes?
Two days is ideal to explore the Medina, visit historic landmarks, and experience local workshops.
What is Fes famous for?
Fes is famous for its UNESCO-listed Medina, Al-Qarawiyyin University, traditional tanneries, and handcrafted ceramics.
Is Fes better than Marrakech?
Fes is more historic and traditional, while Marrakech is more vibrant and tourist-oriented. Both offer different experiences.
Can you visit the tanneries in Fes?
Yes. Visitors can view the Chouara Tannery from surrounding leather shops and terraces.
Comments